Tuesday, May 14, 2019

The Joy of Second Shooting




















Wedding season may well be in full swing, but its’ been almost four years, since I’ve shot one. By choice, rather than lack of opportunity. Second shooting at Punjabi weddings, is familiar territory for me. However, all too frequently, my terms weren’t respected, so, I seldom accept these commissions.
To some extent, managing expectations is pivotal to any trade, though particularly true of photography. I am explicit in my terms and once agreed, won’t be swayed. Family connections can often make enforcement harder. Thankfully this shoot was refreshingly straightforward.
This wasn’t a traditional Punjabi wedding, rather a beautifully executed hybrid of civil ceremony, and celebration reflecting the couple, their respective families, and friends. Though I’d like to feel I’m proficient at shooting formal, posed portraiture, I prefer a more candid, reportage flavour, when it comes to weddings.
So, second shooting is perfect, and presents little risk of me impeding the main photographer/team. I’ll leave that to “Uncle Bob”. Uncle Bob is a slightly contentious, derogatory term, similar but less sinister, than GWC (Guy with Camera).
Uncle Bob may well impede a shoot, by nipping in “photo-bomber” fashion at the least convenient moment, often to mimic the commissioned photographer’s image (Between my thighs, at one event).   
By the same token, I consider it important to appreciate guests’ desires to capture their memories from the day. On a personal note, I’ve never been someone who seeks attention.
Alternating between an 85mm 2.8 prime and 50-200 lenses certainly helps maintain a respectful distance, though thankfully, the mood was buoyant throughout, and most people pleasantly oblivious to me. For portraiture commissions, I prefer a 50, or 60mm 1.8, so was mildly annoyed to discover I’d forgotten to swap the 85mm before leaving home. However, by my reckoning, a blessing in disguise.

Thursday, May 9, 2019

S Is For Shibari








Shibari, translated literally, means “To tie” but, in western popular culture, a word synonymous with bondage/BDSM and similar fetishism.
There are connotations, which I am slightly uncomfortable with.
Specifically, undertones of sexualised violence, towards women. That said; life is about questioning and exploring. With this and other “non touch” protocols in mind, the tying was performed by a highly qualified third party.
The shoot started with a fetish theme-our old friend PVC; and became progressively more provocative. Rules are made to be broken, but model comfort and safety (not forgetting my own) must remain intact.
Thankfully, Lauren seemed at ease throughout and I think this shows in the images. Not something I would entertain with an inexperienced model, or without a wealth of clearly established safeguards.
Given the temperamental compatibility between Sony A (Minolta) mount cameras and studio remote triggers, I took the A58 workhorse and 50mm 1.8 prime as a standby. These were shot using my A6000 and 60mm 2.8. prime. F14, 1/125 and ISO 100, in case you were curious...

Monday, April 22, 2019

Beach & Bullets






 
I hadn’t shot with Krystal for a few months. Only because our paths and projects hadn’t crossed. She fancied doing a beach shoot, to promote some of her new clothing range (Instagram kj_pretty_threads ). I reasoned a break from the keyboard would do me good. 
For the uninitiated, there’s an 80/20% rule. 80% should be promotion, 20% doing your trade. Not an easy balance to strike, at least, if self-promotion isn’t second nature. So, with the weather decidedly spring-like, we headed to Walton-On-The Naze. Finding a quiet space, on the beach was tricky, given the favourable weather, and school holidays.
Though no nudity was involved, we are always very conscious and respectful. Especially around families with young children.  Thankfully, this was uneventful, save for me testing the waterproof membrane of my boots, and almost losing a lens cap to the lusty waves.
After an hour and two changes, we made our way back to the car and stopped for another impromptu shoot at Revved Up Tea Bar. Plenty of riders and friendly faces there. Serendipity rather than intent, saw a congregation of Enfield owners. A friendly bunch, who were only too happy to chat, and encourage use of their machines.
We also drew a fair bit of attention from passers-by. No-one interfered; or threatened to test my liability cover. Boiled down to rubber-necking. Oh, and a husband’s lingering gaze incurring his wife’s wrath rather comically.


Sunday, April 14, 2019

Professionalism









Yet again, a shoot has been thwarted by a model’s profound lack of professionalism. Now, before I discuss some non-defamatory specifics, lets explore the definition of professionalism.
It’s defined by the Oxford Learners Dictionary as the “high standard of skill demonstrated by someone well trained in a particular job”. I would expand by saying it’s a holistically high standard of performance, and behaviours expected of someone who makes a living from a given trade/profession.
Models have an unenviable reputation/notoriety for being unreliable and sometimes downright unprofessional. This has been my experience of novice models. Those dipping their toes into the water, rather than with serious direction/intent.
This group often discover modelling is more demanding than they imagined. A Vegas based model used an amusing acronym GWT (Girl with Tits) to describe those with little talent, or professionalism. Someone who expects to stand there and be paid, just as the GWC (Guy with Camera) has no interest in photography beyond access to young wo/men.
Sweeping hobbyist models and hobbyist photographers into this unsavoury category, would be grossly unfair, and inaccurate. There are many professionals who have/used status/power to push levels and generally mistreat models. Nonetheless, it irks me when I’ve booked and planned a shoot…
We’ve agreed the theme, I’ve planned and prepared my equipment, driven to the venue…Only to discover the model has cancelled without notice, or can’t be bothered to turn up.  Taking a deposit, to cover lost time and other costs certainly helps.
Talking of which, I’ve heard models say they’ve turned up for group shoots and one or more models has been under the influence of drink/drugs. Any professional studio/photographer will simply stop the shoot, if only for insurance purposes. Someone drunk or high is extremely unpredictable and exposes everyone to unnecessary risk.
On a wider level, any model, or photographer feeling uncomfortable should stop a shoot. I’ve done so twice, a decade back. In the first instance I realised the model was being cajoled into a level she was not comfortable with, by her “partner”.  So, last Thursday…
Communication had been reasonable and having double checked all was fine the night before, I drove thirty miles to her chosen studio. Having just engaged my car’s handbrake, I received a text from her “Manager” advising that she would not be shooting today. Hmm, well I’d come this far, and wanted to investigate this claim a little further.
Having knocked at the door, I was met with her manager and we had a very insightful, conversation. He was a semi-retired photographer who recounted similar experiences throughout his career. His stance (rather like my own) is to drop a model who failed to show; or cancelled with zero notice. I explained that I am compassionate and recognise emergencies can hit us like a hurricane. Some things can’t be helped. However, the professional thing is to communicate this, promptly. I learned she also had an underlying and relatively serious condition. Something she should’ve disclosed during our initial communications.
Not difficult to appreciate why a model wouldn’t, for fear of being dropped. However, if I know, I can take an informed view and possibly re-book, should they be suffering before the shoot.
I can also factor more frequent rest breaks, avoid poses which induce pain/discomfort etc. I’m glad I spoke directly with him. I also advised I would not consider working with her in future and would explain this via email, which I did.    
So, with these things mind and in the interests of balance, some things to consider when working with models and photographers.
Working with Models.  
As a photographer, select a model who works to the levels you are looking to capture (e.g. fashion, lingerie, editorial, topless, implied nude, art nude, fetish etc) and do not ask them to go outside of these, ever.
Check references carefully. Some novice models will not have any, which requires greater scrutiny. In these instances, I turn to pre-shoot communications. If they cannot explain what drew them to me, and my port-folio specifically, I end things there. I now insist upon a deposit too, to compensate, should they not show, as agreed.
Keep all communication online. Either via email, or personal messages if communicating through port-folio hosting sites. Be clear about the nature and structure of the shoot. What where, when, how many and turnaround times, for images.  
Check all your equipment the night before, ensure all batteries are fully charged. This includes flashguns, tripods and other portable lighting.
Ensure your record keeping is flawless and always ensure you have seen and take copies of photographic id e.g. driving licence, passport etc confirming their age and identity.
I prefer non-invasive third party/chaperones at shoots, regardless of genre. Protects model and photographer from accusations of wrong doing. Steer clear of anyone (model, or photographer) refusing to entertain the idea.
On the day of the shoot, ensure a studio, or location is correctly set up, has a suitably private changing area and you are there, on time. Ideally you will have exchanged contact numbers at least 24hours beforehand, in case of unavoidable delay.
Ensure model(s) and third parties are sober i.e. not under the influence of drink/drugs. Stop the shoot, if there is any hint of incapacity. Similarly, do not be afraid to stop the shoot (and leave) if you are made to feel uncomfortable at any point.
If you are paying the model, ensure monies are readily available i.e. if you are paying cash, have it beforehand.
Direct models professionally, politely and essentially, as you’d want to be treated yourself. NEVER touch; or invade a model’s space.
Both parties tend to warm up, during the first twenty minutes, or so. Allow for this. Stick to the discussed levels.
Factor in short, comfort breaks- for both parties and be very clear about shoot durations.
Occasionally, a model may want to go from fashion to lingerie, or lingerie to implied. I decline, especially if this is your first shoot, together. What may appeal at the time, may be regretted later. In these instances, I suggest they go away, think about it and re-book a subsequent shoot. Gives them time to “cool off” and consider whether its genuinely right for them.   
Models: Some Notes On Working With Photographers
Research potential photographers carefully. Look at their style, their genres covered. Is their style compatible with yours? Check references carefully but also see how they communicate and keep these discussions in writing.
Either via email, or port-folio hosting site messages.  If someone’s port-folio is exclusively nude and your intention is fashion, it would be prudent to look elsewhere, or ask some very searching questions. Swerve anyone who is resistant to a well-behaved chaperone/third party.
If you feel uncomfortable, or a photographer/assistant has overstepped the mark at any point, do not be afraid to stop the shoot and leave-promptly. Be guided by your gut and check exit points upon arrival.
Turn up at the location, at the agreed time and fully prepared to shoot. Sickness doesn’t work to a schedule. If you suddenly awake feeling terrible, then contact them as soon as possible.
That said; do not ring them at 3am! (unless the shoot is very early). 72-48 hours is a reasonable cancellation period for either party. Time is costly, and do not be surprised if he photographer will not work with you, in future.    
Respect the photographer, studio and their equipment.
Do not be surprised if a studio/photographer insists in a reasonable deposit upfront (but check terms) this is to safeguard against no-shows and other issues. If you have agreed the fee, pay it. I’ve had models turn up, insisting I pay them. Hopefully you can see the importance, of recorded and thorough pre-shoot communication.
All the models featured in this post were professional in every respect, and a joy to work with.

Friday, March 22, 2019

Michelle







I was tempted to call this entry “The Tale of The Irish Italian Glamour Model, The Shetland Pony, the Potcheen and The Welsh Nationalists". However, I’d be accused of sensationalism, and I dare say, much worse…
Michelle is a former Page3 model, of Irish and Italian heritage. She also has a Shetland Pony and a general love of equines. I’ve given up shooting novice models, specifically those under 30, due to reliability and their insistence upon doing TF shoots.
I was approached by a male model “admiring” my work. Having confirmed I will happily work with both genders, he felt I should… Drive to London, book and pay for a studio, shoot him and provide him with images. All at cost to me. Polite email reply, thanking him for his interest and my quote.  
Michelle shares my contempt for this generally, no-win, one-sided futility. She blocks any photographer/studio/publication inviting her to do anything TFP. Little surprise to discover we got along, pre shoot and gelled well, during.
Glamour is a genre that can mean many things. However, it most frequently conjures up visions of topless women, tabloid newspapers and “Lads Mags”. Not really my remit, unless of course we’re taking an ironic, tongue-in-cheek stance.  We decided upon a mix of implied, topless, lingerie, with some fine art thrown in for good measure.
In contrast to “Glamour” I’m quite fond of fine-art and implied, because of their subtle, suggestive tones. At one point, I was shooting these regularly. On the plus side, a sign models felt comfortable with me. However, not a genre I wanted to be typecast by. I am also very selective about who I will shoot nudes with.
Yes, it might be legal to shoot nudes with an 18-year old aspiring/model, but I’ve always declined. There are a lot of things, which are legal but could lead to regret. I recall an 18-year old model, who took the nude route (with another photographer), then regretted her decision immediately afterward.
She was trying to reclaim the images, and even claim she was legally a child. No. There were lots of things I (and friends) did at this age, which were perfectly legal, but not the best moves.
If a model understands the potential consequences, and has been modelling a few years, I might shoot topless/tasteful nudes with them-at 21. However, I’m more comfortable when they’re closer to 24/25.
I always ask a model to bring along a selection of lingerie and other clothing, to make the shoot more interesting. I shot Michelle at a lovely cottage location. I used a mixture of natural daylight and portable LED lighting.  
One half of the property was blessed with masses of natural light, yet still providing ample seclusion. The other featured period beams and was much darker. Hence, I went for an intimate “warm glow”. In some respects, and on paper, an f/1.4 lens would’ve been better here. However, my 50mm f/1.8 and portable “Light sabre” delivered the desired results. 
We shot for two hours, with time for clothing changes and comfort stops. I was also aware of Michelle’s underlying condition, which can leave her feeling uncomfortably tired. Not one obvious during our session, but three hours straight, is pretty much her limit. Mine too, frankly. I have undertaken longer commissions but there’s been a 45minute food and rest break between. Suffice to say, I’d happily work with Michelle on future commissions.
             

Friday, March 8, 2019

Emmy






Basildon based Emmy, had expressed an interest in working with me, a few months back. She cited variety and quality, as the main attraction. Crucially, she was able to deliver a coherent paragraph, discussing ideas, shoot plans and desired locations. 
We had originally explored industrial backdrops, but she was keen to move towards more mainstream, fashion and portraiture. She had modelled during her late teens and enjoyed it. However, a very different career path and family followed. A familiar narrative and for me, a good indicator of genuine commitment.
There has been a rise of what I call “Insta models” (as distinct from pros, or serious hobbyists, with social media presence) who are essentially expecting instant fame and recognition. A complete waste of my time and other resources.
Many have asked me to work for “Exposure” i.e. free, citing the number of followers. There are exceptions to every rule. However, how frequently do you scrutinise film, or TV credits?  Nobody is looking at, or cares about the photographer, so “exposure” is a moot point.
TFP (Time for print) is where model and photographer collaborate, on a project. There may be a commercial end, say selling on the images and splitting profits accordingly. Something I will do, with selected models, at my discretion.
Otherwise, I respond, thanking them for reaching out, and with a scale of charges. The real risk, though particularly with the “Insta” model, is late, zero notice cancellations, or no-show.
In these instances, you are running at a considerable loss-all round. Time in preparation, hours that could otherwise be billed for, transport and other, on costs. At a conservative estimate, we’re talking £250 down the drain.    
I strongly suggest that an inexperienced photographer pay a model and vice versa to build their port-folios. This is an investment and rewards with vastly superior results-for both parties. Simple.
So, having cured my Sony and Samsung’s autofocusing gremlins, we worked around a local park and woodland area. Being term time, people traffic and interruptions were minimal.
High and blustery winds were another contributing factor. However, these kept rain at bay. They also added motion to Emmy’s long brown hair, and in my opinion, a more intense flavour. 


Playing with Light: In the Studio with Kym

  I do a lot of location work and lean toward natural light, but Kym invited me to come and shoot her in a studio context. We decided on a f...