S Is For Shibari

Shibari, translated literally, means “To tie” but, in western popular culture, a word synonymous with bondage/BDSM and similar fetishism.

There are connotations, which I am slightly uncomfortable with.

Specifically, undertones of sexualised violence, towards women. That said; life is about questioning and exploring. With this and other “non touch” protocols in mind, the tying was performed by a highly qualified third party.

The shoot started with a fetish theme-our old friend PVC; and became progressively more provocative. Rules are made to be broken, but model comfort and safety (not forgetting my own) must remain intact.

Thankfully, Lauren seemed at ease throughout and I think this shows in the images. Not something I would entertain with an inexperienced model, or without a wealth of clearly established safeguards.

Given the temperamental compatibility between Sony A (Minolta) mount cameras and studio remote triggers, I took the A58 workhorse and 50mm 1.8 prime as a standby. These were shot using my A6000 and 60mm 2.8. prime. F14, 1/125 and ISO 100, in case you were curious...

Editorial Exposure

Following a fortnight’s unreliable, unprofessional, timewasting “models”, I was delighted to find a message from Efi. She wanted to shoot an editorial theme, in central London.

I don’t shoot much editorial, nor do I visit the capital much these days. However, I knew she’d show, on time, fully prepared and full of enthusiasm. We met at St Paul’s Station, and these steps proved an ideal starting point.

The public can pose a real challenge. Thankfully, even in London, most people have proven discrete and respectful. Nonetheless, the sheer volume can frustrate. I took a series of frames laying on my side, timing shutter presses exactly.

Waiting for them to leave the frame completely was futile. I had no desire to spend extended periods removing them, in post-production, either.

Efi has a very clear idea of what she wants to achieve, which is extremely helpful. This is matched only by her work ethic. We went through three outfit changes and walked at least five miles.

Aside from stopping every few frames to assess progress, poses and styles, we worked for four hours. Light was fading fast, towards the end, my little Samsung NX3000’s F2 lens was struggling to keep pace. Ideally, I like to keep the ISO at 100, for optimal quality. I didn’t want to be encumbered by a tripod either.   

Predictably, the Sony’s 1.8 fared much better. I’d like to add a 50mm 1.4, to my ensemble, at the right price. Ordinarily, my location shoots are done by 1530-1400 during December.

Studios are less prescriptive, set up for f8 (f7.1, sometimes 5.6) and 1/125. Well within the scope of most kit lenses. However, where appropriate, I enjoy the variety and challenge of location work.

David Bailey once remarked that “Cameras have attitudes”; Context is crucial, and it seems he is referring to the attitudes they invoke. Those expressed by the photographer and those, being captured by them.

I’m inclined to suggest this also applies to camera attitudes/personalities. Both the Samsung and Sony developed an annoying, intermittent focusing fault. One which has never struck before, and has (famous last words) been exorcised…

Lipstick, Powder & Paint...Collaborating with Ellie Thurgood MUA

There’s no shortage of people, claiming to be makeup artists. Unemployed talent show hopefuls, dripping in disastrously ill matched foundation, being cases in point.

Qualified makeup artists (the sort delivering commercially credible results) are highly trained and skilled.

I was approached by Ellie Thurgood https://purpleport.com/portfolio/elliethurgoodmua/ , a part time MUA, who’d attained her NVQ level 2 funded by, and alongside another role. Ellie was talking in terms of moody portraiture. Despite a lack of references, she communicated her ideas coherently, came across as focused, reliable and professional. Gut instinct paid off.

With light and climate becoming unreliable, we agreed on an indoor location. I left model selection in Ellie’s court. She’d know the attributes required and I didn’t want the shoot scuppered by an unknown (and potentially unreliable) candidate.

I headed to the East Midlands, on another mission. Ellie quickly recruited Jerri Eliza https://purpleport.com/portfolio/jerrieliza/  Location, timing and suggestions flowed between us, via networking sites and other, digital platforms. Ellie was bringing her portable ring light, I opted to keep things simple. Flashguns, Sony Alpha SLR, Samsung NX CSC, batteries, portable LED “wand” and reflector.

Oh, and of course, sustenance for all parties. Miserable models, or (more likely) surly photographer could prove a real creativity killer during a four-hour shoot. We’d all agreed Monday evening-7pm.

I arrived on set at 6.45, Ellie 5 minutes later. Jerri was already there. Real world introductions done, we unpacked and set up. I’d gone for a 50mm 1.8 prime, set the flashgun and fired a few shots, then tweaked the settings to suit.

With a relaxed, yet purposeful mood, talk turned to our backgrounds. Something of a sociable loner (contradiction in terms, anyone) I am fascinated by people, which probably explains my transition to social photography.

Jerri happened to mention her family were of Irish origin, which explained her very pale “Celtic” complexion (although they had been in London’s East End for several generations).

She’s grown up in Newham (Custom House and later, East Ham). I’d lived in the central park area of E6. A stable and relatively, safe district 20 odd years back. However, inner city districts are always transitioning to some extent and once the creatives enter, developers aren’t far behind…

On best behaviour, I managed to subdue any urges to lament the area’s loss of derelict buildings/backdrops. She’d also worked in animal welfare, with an impressive understanding of dog breeds and their foibles.

My lighting calculations were accurate. Alternating between silver and bronze reflectors also achieved some positive contrasts. I have a resistance (rather than aversion) to golden hues but it appeared complimentary to Jerri’s tones and hair colour.        

Two striking looks (and variations) and good rapport saw time literally evaporate- We said our goodbyes, and I headed home to begin post-processing.

Reliability & Referencing

Recently I’ve had two zero-notice cancellations and a no-show. The reasons vary. From models citing sudden academic deadlines, to more serious, health issues.

I don’t employ a blanket policy for these situations, since it can often depend on personal circumstances. Sickness doesn’t work to a schedule, the most reliable, properly maintained cars, or indeed childcare can let us down. I’ve been there!

However, unless there are mitigating circumstances (that I have been made aware of), two cancelations, or a no-show and there’s no way back with me. This is particularly acute, in a commercial shoot context, where an experienced, professional model is being paid.

A lot of planning goes into shoots. From the choice of location, appropriate equipment, snacks/drinks to maintain sustenance, pre-empting potential problems and their solutions etc.

I was recently approached by a model, who suddenly went cold, cited a whole heap of pressing engagements. She has subsequently been wanting to shoot. Intuition tells me she’ll cancel again. From my perspective, there are plenty of reliable, committed models to choose from... 

Thankfully, my pre-shoot screening process weeds out most potentially/ unreliable candidates. Being out of pocket and there’s little redress, other than a negative reference, which will only induce another, by retort. 

Another model, seemingly keen to work with me, postponed one week. Fair enough, I hadn’t booked a studio, or got in my car… Being self-employed, there’s always something needing my attention.

The shoot was rearranged-same time, this week. I got in touch, 48hours beforehand (not to mention, the morning of said shoot), checking she was still able to attend.

She confirmed and so I headed out... 

Upon arriving at our agreed meeting point, I received a text advising she was unable to attend, for seemingly genuine reasons. Could we move the shoot to 1pm instead, or move to another day??

I was already irritated but seeing as I was already there (1 hour away from base), agreed to the later slot. Light would still be good, and chances are, the weather would’ve also cheered up a bit.

Ultimately, she didn’t show but I got a real sense of her vulnerability, from talking with her father. Our focus shifted to locating her and ensuring she was safe. Thankfully, she was. I’m a compassionate person, so suggested she inform people of her conditions beforehand, allowing understanding and, informed choice.  

I also suggested she could concentrate on finding the right support, getting stronger before resuming modelling. She has the makings of a very capable model, so it would be a real shame if she bowed out.   

Blocking

To date, I have only blocked one model. She was based in Bedfordshire, a 90minute drive from me. This coincided with a trip to the Midlands, so theoretically, a great fit. After some formative discussions, she went cold. She refused to disclose the venue’s address, or supply her phone number, 24hrs before the scheduled shoot. I blocked her in preference to leaving a bad reference.

A Cambridgeshire-based model also approached this week...Then I noted 4 no-shows, out of 7 shoots. Not worth the risk. Let alone fuel, time and hassle.   

Models (and indeed, photographers) can “Ghost” (fall silent on a project). However, so much easier to act professionally. Say you’ve had a change of heart; or if arrangements have been made, give notice. Ideally at least 72hours.

The Flip Side

By the same token, I know of models who have been approached by photographers, seeking to shoot fashion, when their port-folio consists exclusively of erotic/adult images. 

Having gone through a phase of shooting fine art nudes, I can appreciate its easy to get typecast.

I’m happy (With the right models and appropriate safeguards in place) shooting this style. Nonetheless,  there are several other genres I’d prefer to be associated with.

The model in one instance, asked the photographer to detail the shoot specification, 48hours beforehand, or she would not attend. A request he declined. She refused to attend and subsequently received a negative “no-show” reference.

On The Waterfront...With Aurora Ray

 No, not the iconic film with Marlon Brando. I’m referring to an evening quayside shoot with Aurora Ray, in Ipswich. I responded to a casting call and we corresponded for a few weeks.  Ideas, concepts and possible locations floated and pondered.

Ipswich is approximately an hour or so’s drive from me, but a town I hadn’t visited for almost three decades. Even then, I was only familiar with the Portman Road area, home to the football club and infamously, a red-light district.

Thankfully, Aurora had excellent local knowledge, which complemented her creative vision.

Little surprise that I leaped at the suggestion of Graffiti and disused quayside buildings…Sunset this time of year, is around 18.45, so we arranged to meet an hour beforehand.

Having successfully orbited the town centre systems during rush hour, I was relieved to discover a car park within easy reach of the quayside. We’d agreed to meet by the University, opposite. Chances were, we’d be wrapped up within an hour or so. However, I’ve an aversion to fines, so fed the meter a little more.

This early in the academic year, you could feel a real sense of anticipation and a generally positive atmosphere from the halls of residence. One that certainly resonated with me, some 26 years since I arrived in London’s East End, fresh faced and decidedly green.

There’s always one student who stands out. In this instance, one losing command of his trousers, while exiting his car. Shortly afterward, a text arrived-Aurora saying she was a few minutes away. She materialised carrying a cluster of red helium balloons and extruding enthusiasm.

Camera bag, reflector and energy-boosting bananas grasped, I locked the KA and Aurora led me along the waterside, with its eclectic mix of bars and restaurants. Their neon signage more intense, as the golden hour loomed. Our first location was a long disused and very derelict factory.

Several stories high, ground floor access points had been sealed and the usual warnings emblazomed across the boards.  She switched from her light summer dress and I fired a few tester shots. The alley, though clearly a street drinker’s refuge, was also moderately trafficked and relatively well lit, which was ideal, in every respect.

One man had my senses screaming with alarm. I was concerned he might attempt to snatch one, or both of our bags. Luckily, he quickly lost interest and shuffled through, without further interaction.  

Aurora has a classic model figure and knew her body well, thus created and moved seamlessly between poses, making the very most of available time and light. Checking the area for broken glass and other sharps, she posed on the pallets, which accentuated her poise and willowy figure.

The next street had these corrugated shutters. I was pleasantly surprised by driver cooperation and sensitivity. Many stopping and seemingly alarmed that they’d interrupted us. Not something you’d experience in a major city, or provincial towns for that matter.

A skate park fired our imaginations, but we opted in favour of a towpath, which also had some very striking and genuinely beautifully crafted murals. The sort so revered, they are left unmolested, by taggers and local authority environmental teams alike. 15 minutes later and the golden hour was almost gone but by this point, we had 80 shots. A short but successful evening…

What Makes a Model?

There is an argument that within the post-modern, virtual world that we can be anything, or indeed, anyone we want to be.

Traditionally, female editorial/fashion models should be 5’9 to 6ft tall, with a 33-inch bust 23-inch waist and 33-inch hips. This is not the only criterion, agencies tend to recruit on a more rounded basis and the modelling industry has much broader horizons.

Similarly, while there is still a baseline, entry level price point, camera equipment has become increasingly affordable. A base line SLR and kit lens bundle can be had for £399-new, cheaper second hand.

On the one hand, this is extremely empowering and allows people to participate and develop their photography. For whatever purpose. On the other, it invites a certain element. One who seeks to use a camera as a means of gaining access to (usually young women) with darker motivations.

True, though thankfully rare, I’ve met some very technically able photographers, whose moral compass is somewhere in the foundries of hell. However, the Guy with Camera (GWC) is more easily spotted. Typically, they can be sussed out in their approach and communication/lack thereof.

They may carry a “professional looking” camera but have no port-folio/website, or one cultivated from stolen images-the right click n’ save manoeuvre. Chances are, at some point, in a model’s career, regardless whether internationally published, aspiring, or hobbyist, they will encounter one.

Before we go any further, the GWC must never be confused with an enthusiast amateur, or hobbyist photographer. These tend to enthuse about their equipment, images and enjoy working with models from a creative perspective.

Now, I have different cameras for different contexts. SLRs being the most obvious choices for location work. I run Sony’s older Alpha (Minolta) since its what I’m most familiar with, and lenses are in plentiful, inexpensive supply.

I also use mirrorless Compact System Cameras (CSC) with APSC sensors, for street photography and similar situations where the larger camera would attract unfavourable attention. Given most models are expecting SLR, I tend to introduce the smaller camera much later. Most are very impressed with the results, too.    

  

I am always shocked but not ultimately, not surprised by the stories models tell me, of inappropriate “photographer” behaviour through the course of our shoots. Common incidents include pushing levels e.g. trying to cajole a model into doing nude/topless work when lingerie is their stop-point. Sadly there are also those who touch, grope, or otherwise intimidate.

Pre-Shoot Communications

A while back, I was discussing this topic with a Vegas based model (who also has a fantastic Urbex You tube channel)  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVKmu1SCKzo  Red flags for her, include a photographer who cannot construct an articulate and detailed paragraph regarding their approach, the nature and duration of the shoot.  

I also work along very similar lines, since a photographer is potentially vulnerable. References are a good indicator, but I am also guided by discussion and gut. 

Two of my first questions are (a) what attracted them to me in particular (b) What direction they were looking to take their modelling/port-folio. My sole objective is to create the standard and type of images, the client is looking for. However, it also gives much wider insight, into their motivations, character and ultimately, ensures both parties know exactly what to expect.  

This keeps things fluid and comfortable, on the day. If our creative approaches are wildly different, or otherwise incompatible, I will politely decline. I’ve done so, on several occasions and this policy has served me well.

Sure, we all start somewhere, but a series of selfies, gives little indication of potential, or aptitude. If you are starting out, as a model and with serious intent, decide upon your genre(s)/levels. Then find a photographer, one you feel comfortable with, and invest in a paid shoot.

Case Study: Carla

Now, before I became preoccupied with a more cautionary, some would say, darker note. I was talking about models coming from all walks of life. Carla stands 4ft 10 and is agency signed, with two years’ experience.

She approached me wanting to expand her port-folio. Contradiction in terms perhaps but she openly describes herself as shy. Hence, I was particularly keen to establish a good and extended rapport beforehand. With a relaxed but conscientious approach, the two hours flowed nicely, and we were pleased with the results. She’s someone I would happily work/collaborate with in future.