Professionalism

Yet again, a shoot has been thwarted by a model’s profound lack of professionalism. Now, before I discuss some non-defamatory specifics, lets explore the definition of professionalism.

It’s defined by the Oxford Learners Dictionary as the “high standard of skill demonstrated by someone well trained in a particular job”. I would expand by saying it’s a holistically high standard of performance, and behaviours expected of someone who makes a living from a given trade/profession.

Models have an unenviable reputation/notoriety for being unreliable and sometimes downright unprofessional. This has been my experience of novice models. Those dipping their toes into the water, rather than with serious direction/intent.

This group often discover modelling is more demanding than they imagined. A Vegas based model used an amusing acronym GWT (Girl with Tits) to describe those with little talent, or professionalism. Someone who expects to stand there and be paid, just as the GWC (Guy with Camera) has no interest in photography beyond access to young wo/men.

Sweeping hobbyist models and hobbyist photographers into this unsavoury category, would be grossly unfair, and inaccurate. There are many professionals who have/used status/power to push levels and generally mistreat models. Nonetheless, it irks me when I’ve booked and planned a shoot…

We’ve agreed the theme, I’ve planned and prepared my equipment, driven to the venue…Only to discover the model has cancelled without notice, or can’t be bothered to turn up.  Taking a deposit, to cover lost time and other costs certainly helps.

Talking of which, I’ve heard models say they’ve turned up for group shoots and one or more models has been under the influence of drink/drugs. Any professional studio/photographer will simply stop the shoot, if only for insurance purposes. Someone drunk or high is extremely unpredictable and exposes everyone to unnecessary risk.

On a wider level, any model, or photographer feeling uncomfortable should stop a shoot. I’ve done so twice, a decade back. In the first instance I realised the model was being cajoled into a level she was not comfortable with, by her “partner”.  So, last Thursday…

Communication had been reasonable and having double checked all was fine the night before, I drove thirty miles to her chosen studio. Having just engaged my car’s handbrake, I received a text from her “Manager” advising that she would not be shooting today. Hmm, well I’d come this far, and wanted to investigate this claim a little further.

Having knocked at the door, I was met with her manager and we had a very insightful, conversation. He was a semi-retired photographer who recounted similar experiences throughout his career. His stance (rather like my own) is to drop a model who failed to show; or cancelled with zero notice. I explained that I am compassionate and recognise emergencies can hit us like a hurricane. Some things can’t be helped. However, the professional thing is to communicate this, promptly. I learned she also had an underlying and relatively serious condition. Something she should’ve disclosed during our initial communications.

Not difficult to appreciate why a model wouldn’t, for fear of being dropped. However, if I know, I can take an informed view and possibly re-book, should they be suffering before the shoot.

I can also factor more frequent rest breaks, avoid poses which induce pain/discomfort etc. I’m glad I spoke directly with him. I also advised I would not consider working with her in future and would explain this via email, which I did.    

So, with these things mind and in the interests of balance, some things to consider when working with models and photographers.

Working with Models.  

As a photographer, select a model who works to the levels you are looking to capture (e.g. fashion, lingerie, editorial, topless, implied nude, art nude, fetish etc) and do not ask them to go outside of these, ever.

Check references carefully. Some novice models will not have any, which requires greater scrutiny. In these instances, I turn to pre-shoot communications. If they cannot explain what drew them to me, and my port-folio specifically, I end things there. I now insist upon a deposit too, to compensate, should they not show, as agreed.

Keep all communication online. Either via email, or personal messages if communicating through port-folio hosting sites. Be clear about the nature and structure of the shoot. What where, when, how many and turnaround times, for images.  

Check all your equipment the night before, ensure all batteries are fully charged. This includes flashguns, tripods and other portable lighting.

Ensure your record keeping is flawless and always ensure you have seen and take copies of photographic id e.g. driving licence, passport etc confirming their age and identity.

I prefer non-invasive third party/chaperones at shoots, regardless of genre. Protects model and photographer from accusations of wrong doing. Steer clear of anyone (model, or photographer) refusing to entertain the idea.

On the day of the shoot, ensure a studio, or location is correctly set up, has a suitably private changing area and you are there, on time. Ideally you will have exchanged contact numbers at least 24hours beforehand, in case of unavoidable delay.

Ensure model(s) and third parties are sober i.e. not under the influence of drink/drugs. Stop the shoot, if there is any hint of incapacity. Similarly, do not be afraid to stop the shoot (and leave) if you are made to feel uncomfortable at any point.

If you are paying the model, ensure monies are readily available i.e. if you are paying cash, have it beforehand.

Direct models professionally, politely and essentially, as you’d want to be treated yourself. NEVER touch; or invade a model’s space.

Both parties tend to warm up, during the first twenty minutes, or so. Allow for this. Stick to the discussed levels.

Factor in short, comfort breaks- for both parties and be very clear about shoot durations.

Occasionally, a model may want to go from fashion to lingerie, or lingerie to implied. I decline, especially if this is your first shoot, together. What may appeal at the time, may be regretted later. In these instances, I suggest they go away, think about it and re-book a subsequent shoot. Gives them time to “cool off” and consider whether its genuinely right for them.   

Models: Some Notes On Working With Photographers

Research potential photographers carefully. Look at their style, their genres covered. Is their style compatible with yours? Check references carefully but also see how they communicate and keep these discussions in writing.

Either via email, or port-folio hosting site messages.  If someone’s port-folio is exclusively nude and your intention is fashion, it would be prudent to look elsewhere, or ask some very searching questions. Swerve anyone who is resistant to a well-behaved chaperone/third party.

If you feel uncomfortable, or a photographer/assistant has overstepped the mark at any point, do not be afraid to stop the shoot and leave-promptly. Be guided by your gut and check exit points upon arrival.

Turn up at the location, at the agreed time and fully prepared to shoot. Sickness doesn’t work to a schedule. If you suddenly awake feeling terrible, then contact them as soon as possible.

That said; do not ring them at 3am! (unless the shoot is very early). 72-48 hours is a reasonable cancellation period for either party. Time is costly, and do not be surprised if he photographer will not work with you, in future.    

Respect the photographer, studio and their equipment.

Do not be surprised if a studio/photographer insists in a reasonable deposit upfront (but check terms) this is to safeguard against no-shows and other issues. If you have agreed the fee, pay it. I’ve had models turn up, insisting I pay them. Hopefully you can see the importance, of recorded and thorough pre-shoot communication.

All the models featured in this post were professional in every respect, and a joy to work with.

Emmy

Basildon based Emmy, had expressed an interest in working with me, a few months back. She cited variety and quality, as the main attraction. Crucially, she was able to deliver a coherent paragraph, discussing ideas, shoot plans and desired locations. 

We had originally explored industrial backdrops, but she was keen to move towards more mainstream, fashion and portraiture. She had modelled during her late teens and enjoyed it. However, a very different career path and family followed. A familiar narrative and for me, a good indicator of genuine commitment.

There has been a rise of what I call “Insta models” (as distinct from pros, or serious hobbyists, with social media presence) who are essentially expecting instant fame and recognition. A complete waste of my time and other resources.

Many have asked me to work for “Exposure” i.e. free, citing the number of followers. There are exceptions to every rule. However, how frequently do you scrutinise film, or TV credits?  Nobody is looking at, or cares about the photographer, so “exposure” is a moot point.

TFP (Time for print) is where model and photographer collaborate, on a project. There may be a commercial end, say selling on the images and splitting profits accordingly. Something I will do, with selected models, at my discretion.

Otherwise, I respond, thanking them for reaching out, and with a scale of charges. The real risk, though particularly with the “Insta” model, is late, zero notice cancellations, or no-show.

In these instances, you are running at a considerable loss-all round. Time in preparation, hours that could otherwise be billed for, transport and other, on costs. At a conservative estimate, we’re talking £250 down the drain.    

I strongly suggest that an inexperienced photographer pay a model and vice versa to build their port-folios. This is an investment and rewards with vastly superior results-for both parties. Simple.

So, having cured my Sony and Samsung’s autofocusing gremlins, we worked around a local park and woodland area. Being term time, people traffic and interruptions were minimal.

High and blustery winds were another contributing factor. However, these kept rain at bay. They also added motion to Emmy’s long brown hair, and in my opinion, a more intense flavour. 

Fine Art & Fine Lines

Who do you think you are? David Bailey?

This hackneyed retort, remains a popular one, slung at photographers from “witty” passers-by. Very occasionally in my direction, during location shoots. 

Bailey comes across as shrewd, highly intelligent, complex and challenging.

I could even attempt to imply commonalities. I’ve lived in those East Ham streets, I could also wax lyrical about Newham's once derelict delights...

Doing so, would be like wealthy students dropping h’s and pretending their parents worked on the docks, or at Ford’s body plant. Fooling no-one. (Back in 1992, I witnessed one mockney Trustafarian exiting the saloon bar, via a long-established patron’s fist).  

Pretending to be someone, or indeed something else, invariably results in disappointment. Its also a complete waste of time. I like Bailey’s work, his brusque, thought provoking commentary also resonates with me. I’d also love to chat with him about the derelict buildings and streets. However, I am not Bailey, nor do I have any desire to be a second-rate caricature, a cardboard cut-out. 

A run of unreliable models, has forced me to raise booking fees.

I've a reputation for being warm and professional but not suffering fools gladly. Experience means unreliable, or otherwise resource sapping people are generally spotted within a sentence. Two, tops. It's often what people don’t say, that speaks volumes. 

Not that long ago, I’d simply charge the studio rates for those two hours. Now, I’ve factored time lost, mileage and other on-costs into the equation.

Yes, I might miss an opportunity here and there. However, it also roots out timewasters. Many seasoned models operate on a similar basis, for precisely these reasons.

Returning to my authenticity narrative, I enjoy working with novice models and building their port-folios. However, models without direction (or unable to take such) are a complete waste of energy. Though modelling has become more diverse, professionalism is key. I’m not simply referring to showing up, and on time. Hobbyist models, like hobbyist photographers should not be sneered at. These may not be their professions, but that's not to say their attitude and conduct is anything less. 

Experienced, and consistently successful models look after themselves, physically and mentally. Dancers are cases in point. Their sense of poise, grace and self- knowledge is immediately apparent, and the shoots tend to flow smoothly, with beautiful captures.

Model port-folio hosting and networking sites are fantastic resources.

Not only for aspiring/models, makeup artists but photographers too. However, research people carefully, to avoid time wasting, and other nasty surprises.  Sometimes, dipping our toes in, is the only gauge, of whether we like/feel comfortable with something (or not). 

I am selective with who I will work and associate with. Often this is determined by what they do. For example, there are people who believe they are going to be “discovered” (An innocent enough delusion. One that I passively subscribed to, in my late teens an early 20s).

There is no structure, or indeed variety in their images. The poses and indeed images show little, if any variation. This can be for several reasons, including (a) Insufficient, or poor direction (b) An unimaginative model/photographer pairing, achieving predictable results.

I don’t like readers wives/page 3 genres of glamour photography, but intelligently posed and lit boudoir can be fantastic. Soft and playful on the one hand, sensually engaging (as opposed to stimulating) on the other.

Then of course, there’s the power of suggestion. Some people there’s little separating fine art and pornography. I’d argue they’re two completely different genres. Soft porn, including the “reader’s wives” genres I’ve just referred to, are visceral. Fine art and implied nude, captured correctly provokes thought and intrigue.       

Reliability & Referencing

Recently I’ve had two zero-notice cancellations and a no-show. The reasons vary. From models citing sudden academic deadlines, to more serious, health issues.

I don’t employ a blanket policy for these situations, since it can often depend on personal circumstances. Sickness doesn’t work to a schedule, the most reliable, properly maintained cars, or indeed childcare can let us down. I’ve been there!

However, unless there are mitigating circumstances (that I have been made aware of), two cancelations, or a no-show and there’s no way back with me. This is particularly acute, in a commercial shoot context, where an experienced, professional model is being paid.

A lot of planning goes into shoots. From the choice of location, appropriate equipment, snacks/drinks to maintain sustenance, pre-empting potential problems and their solutions etc.

I was recently approached by a model, who suddenly went cold, cited a whole heap of pressing engagements. She has subsequently been wanting to shoot. Intuition tells me she’ll cancel again. From my perspective, there are plenty of reliable, committed models to choose from... 

Thankfully, my pre-shoot screening process weeds out most potentially/ unreliable candidates. Being out of pocket and there’s little redress, other than a negative reference, which will only induce another, by retort. 

Another model, seemingly keen to work with me, postponed one week. Fair enough, I hadn’t booked a studio, or got in my car… Being self-employed, there’s always something needing my attention.

The shoot was rearranged-same time, this week. I got in touch, 48hours beforehand (not to mention, the morning of said shoot), checking she was still able to attend.

She confirmed and so I headed out... 

Upon arriving at our agreed meeting point, I received a text advising she was unable to attend, for seemingly genuine reasons. Could we move the shoot to 1pm instead, or move to another day??

I was already irritated but seeing as I was already there (1 hour away from base), agreed to the later slot. Light would still be good, and chances are, the weather would’ve also cheered up a bit.

Ultimately, she didn’t show but I got a real sense of her vulnerability, from talking with her father. Our focus shifted to locating her and ensuring she was safe. Thankfully, she was. I’m a compassionate person, so suggested she inform people of her conditions beforehand, allowing understanding and, informed choice.  

I also suggested she could concentrate on finding the right support, getting stronger before resuming modelling. She has the makings of a very capable model, so it would be a real shame if she bowed out.   

Blocking

To date, I have only blocked one model. She was based in Bedfordshire, a 90minute drive from me. This coincided with a trip to the Midlands, so theoretically, a great fit. After some formative discussions, she went cold. She refused to disclose the venue’s address, or supply her phone number, 24hrs before the scheduled shoot. I blocked her in preference to leaving a bad reference.

A Cambridgeshire-based model also approached this week...Then I noted 4 no-shows, out of 7 shoots. Not worth the risk. Let alone fuel, time and hassle.   

Models (and indeed, photographers) can “Ghost” (fall silent on a project). However, so much easier to act professionally. Say you’ve had a change of heart; or if arrangements have been made, give notice. Ideally at least 72hours.

The Flip Side

By the same token, I know of models who have been approached by photographers, seeking to shoot fashion, when their port-folio consists exclusively of erotic/adult images. 

Having gone through a phase of shooting fine art nudes, I can appreciate its easy to get typecast.

I’m happy (With the right models and appropriate safeguards in place) shooting this style. Nonetheless,  there are several other genres I’d prefer to be associated with.

The model in one instance, asked the photographer to detail the shoot specification, 48hours beforehand, or she would not attend. A request he declined. She refused to attend and subsequently received a negative “no-show” reference.