Matinee’ with Michelle

Almost two years since I’d last worked with Michelle, so I was rather pleased she’d got in touch.  I’d also gone through a familiar, but frustrating phase of unreliable models-ghosting and cancelations being the key issues. This is something I’m finding increasingly common with aspiring or novice models, and why I tend to be very discerning.  

I am still happy to work with new models and those returning to the industry, but ask searching questions to evaluate the probability of cancellations etc. Sometimes there are genuine reasons and circumstances beyond their control, and I can empathise with these. 

 

Radio silence is not a good sign, but I’ve developed a sixth sense for these things. Professional models seldom cancel, in the same fashion a professional photographer will ensure they’ve brought the right kit along and tested everything beforehand. Michelle comes from a professional glamour-orientated modelling background and is also pursuing an acting career in parallel.  

I’d toyed with various themes, but the wintry weather precluded an outdoor shoot with a horse, or Shetland pony, so I decided we’d go for something boudoir/lifestyle based with a bit of deep monochrome. Hence the emphasis on black lingerie.    

Michelle needs little direction but is equally receptive to this. Professional models are very self-aware and know their bodies very well- poses which flatter, those which don’t and may tactfully refuse an instruction, if the proposal isn’t going to work aesthetically.

 

For example, posing a model with b cup breasts on all fours- say a suggestive lingerie/boudoir shoot might work. Posing a model with A D cup bust this way would look ridiculous, borderline degrading. Similarly, though many may not be qualified makeup artists or hairdressers, they are competent and know how to apply/create complementary colours and styling.   

We chatted about the business and more casual stuff. People will often confide some very deep personal stuff during shoots, and I’m often flattered some feel comfortable enough to do so. However, not something I engage in. We chatted business, equines, osteopaths and our mutual fondness for Ford’s MK1 KA-I'm on my third, hers had a much higher internal specification but we agreed the little cars are very characterful and handle surprisingly well.  

I shot this set using natural light with the similarly faithful Sony A6000 and 6300 bodies sporting Viltrox 23 and 33mm prime (1.4) lenses. I had the urge to bring my recently acquired Fuji XT100 and 35mm1.8 but hadn’t reached the point where the fuji felt like an extension of my right hand. It should be obvious, but never attend a commercial shoot with unfamiliar, let alone untested equipment. Same goes for many other things- motor/cycle racing and other competitive events being cases in point.  

 

Daisy: Anonymous Nude

Out of the blue, I had an email from Daisy, a catwalk and commercial model, with nine years’ experience. Apparently, she loved my work and specifically, art nudes. Given her status and high-profile client base, more traditional nudes were a non-starter. Career suicide, in fact.

For a wealth of reasons, I am very particular about who I will undertake nude commissions with. Though there is a huge difference between erotica and pornography, gratuitous nudity, or tabloid “Glamour” work has no draw for me.  

Standing 5’11 tall and weighing 9.5 stone, her lithe, yet extremely feminine figure were perfect for creating intriguing shapes and close-up body-scapes. Given anonymity was the overriding theme, I discussed a slightly surreal element. One that Daisy seemed amused by. Bottom line (and this goes for any trade/profession) never ask someone to do something they do not feel confident, or comfortable with.

Though fluidity does strike during shoots, they must always remain within the boundaries agreed. I’ve had models book me for lingerie/boudoir themes, then feel midway, they’d like to try topless/implied. I gently decline. People often do things in the heat of the moment, without considering the longer-term consequences. I may consider this level, as a separate booking, a few weeks later. Once I am confident they have thought it through.   

Having established terms of reference, perimeters and levels, I loaded up my KA with Sony Alpha and A7 bodies, 50 and 30mm lenses. Portable lighting and reflectors, spare batteries and a full tank of fuel.

Thankfully we were shooting on a bright day and the building had a good supply of natural light. Never underestimate the importance of ambient temperature, when undertaking nude, boudoir or similar genres, either.

The anonymous aspect means covering the face, either with hair, masks, or similar props. This can leave the model feeling acutely vulnerable. Especially, if they are unfamiliar with the photographer/assistant. Therefore, I maintain a running dialogue, saying where I am, and what to expect next. I also break regularly, so both parties can review the work.

This reveals what we’ve achieved, where to go next, what worked and sometimes, what didn’t. We noted a couple of shots, which were more explicit than either had intended, so these were deleted. Solid rapport lead to the shoot overrunning slightly, but time is another boundary that must never be overstepped.  

An extremely rewarding shoot with a delightful woman and a consummately professional model.  

  

Suggestion & Sculpture

If you’ve mistakenly come here, looking for manscaping tips, click away now. I am referring to the creation of enticing images, using low key lighting and nude models.

There is some overlap with the erotic, and to some extent, the boundaries between art and pornography are defined by personal compasses. Upbringing/culture, age, gender, life experience etc all have a hand in this.

As with art nudes, subtlety and graceful, thought provoking shapes are the focus. Genitals can feature but not gratuitously. Captivating, not crass is key. Discuss ideas carefully with your chosen models, prior to shooting. Check potential subjects are experienced, or at least comfortable with the genre, and your assignment, specifically.

Planning and structure are fundamental, but as both parties warm up, spontaneity can strike, with compelling results. As ever, model choice and calibre determine the end results, along with little, practical touches.

Ensure an ambient temperature and suitable surfaces to lay/pose against. Some semi/professional models have underlying health concerns/disabilities, which may prohibit certain poses, or require a more considered approach to shoot-break ratios. These are not things that models are likely to advertise, so if you have any concerns, raise them tactfully, during the discursive/planning phases.  

I shot these with Tania Atherton, using a Nikon D500. Camera choice wasn’t premeditated, rather my Sony Alpha body wouldn’t communicate properly with the studio’s remote trigger-even using a suitable hot-shoe adaptor. A recurrent, though not universal theme, hence I use the A6000 almost exclusively for studio work, and the older A series for location-based assignments.    

Michelle

I was tempted to call this entry “The Tale of The Irish Italian Glamour Model, The Shetland Pony, the Potcheen and The Welsh Nationalists". However, I’d be accused of sensationalism, and I dare say, much worse…

Michelle is a former Page3 model, of Irish and Italian heritage. She also has a Shetland Pony and a general love of equines. I’ve given up shooting novice models, specifically those under 30, due to reliability and their insistence upon doing TF shoots.

I was approached by a male model “admiring” my work. Having confirmed I will happily work with both genders, he felt I should… Drive to London, book and pay for a studio, shoot him and provide him with images. All at cost to me. Polite email reply, thanking him for his interest and my quote.  

Michelle shares my contempt for this generally, no-win, one-sided futility. She blocks any photographer/studio/publication inviting her to do anything TFP. Little surprise to discover we got along, pre shoot and gelled well, during.

Glamour is a genre that can mean many things. However, it most frequently conjures up visions of topless women, tabloid newspapers and “Lads Mags”. Not really my remit, unless of course we’re taking an ironic, tongue-in-cheek stance.  We decided upon a mix of implied, topless, lingerie, with some fine art thrown in for good measure.

In contrast to “Glamour” I’m quite fond of fine-art and implied, because of their subtle, suggestive tones. At one point, I was shooting these regularly. On the plus side, a sign models felt comfortable with me. However, not a genre I wanted to be typecast by. I am also very selective about who I will shoot nudes with.

Yes, it might be legal to shoot nudes with an 18-year old aspiring/model, but I’ve always declined. There are a lot of things, which are legal but could lead to regret. I recall an 18-year old model, who took the nude route (with another photographer), then regretted her decision immediately afterward.

She was trying to reclaim the images, and even claim she was legally a child. No. There were lots of things I (and friends) did at this age, which were perfectly legal, but not the best moves.

If a model understands the potential consequences, and has been modelling a few years, I might shoot topless/tasteful nudes with them-at 21. However, I’m more comfortable when they’re closer to 24/25.

I always ask a model to bring along a selection of lingerie and other clothing, to make the shoot more interesting. I shot Michelle at a lovely cottage location. I used a mixture of natural daylight and portable LED lighting.  

One half of the property was blessed with masses of natural light, yet still providing ample seclusion. The other featured period beams and was much darker. Hence, I went for an intimate “warm glow”. In some respects, and on paper, an f/1.4 lens would’ve been better here. However, my 50mm f/1.8 and portable “Light sabre” delivered the desired results. 

We shot for two hours, with time for clothing changes and comfort stops. I was also aware of Michelle’s underlying condition, which can leave her feeling uncomfortably tired. Not one obvious during our session, but three hours straight, is pretty much her limit. Mine too, frankly. I have undertaken longer commissions but there’s been a 45minute food and rest break between. Suffice to say, I’d happily work with Michelle on future commissions.

             

Fine Art & Fine Lines

Who do you think you are? David Bailey?

This hackneyed retort, remains a popular one, slung at photographers from “witty” passers-by. Very occasionally in my direction, during location shoots. 

Bailey comes across as shrewd, highly intelligent, complex and challenging.

I could even attempt to imply commonalities. I’ve lived in those East Ham streets, I could also wax lyrical about Newham's once derelict delights...

Doing so, would be like wealthy students dropping h’s and pretending their parents worked on the docks, or at Ford’s body plant. Fooling no-one. (Back in 1992, I witnessed one mockney Trustafarian exiting the saloon bar, via a long-established patron’s fist).  

Pretending to be someone, or indeed something else, invariably results in disappointment. Its also a complete waste of time. I like Bailey’s work, his brusque, thought provoking commentary also resonates with me. I’d also love to chat with him about the derelict buildings and streets. However, I am not Bailey, nor do I have any desire to be a second-rate caricature, a cardboard cut-out. 

A run of unreliable models, has forced me to raise booking fees.

I've a reputation for being warm and professional but not suffering fools gladly. Experience means unreliable, or otherwise resource sapping people are generally spotted within a sentence. Two, tops. It's often what people don’t say, that speaks volumes. 

Not that long ago, I’d simply charge the studio rates for those two hours. Now, I’ve factored time lost, mileage and other on-costs into the equation.

Yes, I might miss an opportunity here and there. However, it also roots out timewasters. Many seasoned models operate on a similar basis, for precisely these reasons.

Returning to my authenticity narrative, I enjoy working with novice models and building their port-folios. However, models without direction (or unable to take such) are a complete waste of energy. Though modelling has become more diverse, professionalism is key. I’m not simply referring to showing up, and on time. Hobbyist models, like hobbyist photographers should not be sneered at. These may not be their professions, but that's not to say their attitude and conduct is anything less. 

Experienced, and consistently successful models look after themselves, physically and mentally. Dancers are cases in point. Their sense of poise, grace and self- knowledge is immediately apparent, and the shoots tend to flow smoothly, with beautiful captures.

Model port-folio hosting and networking sites are fantastic resources.

Not only for aspiring/models, makeup artists but photographers too. However, research people carefully, to avoid time wasting, and other nasty surprises.  Sometimes, dipping our toes in, is the only gauge, of whether we like/feel comfortable with something (or not). 

I am selective with who I will work and associate with. Often this is determined by what they do. For example, there are people who believe they are going to be “discovered” (An innocent enough delusion. One that I passively subscribed to, in my late teens an early 20s).

There is no structure, or indeed variety in their images. The poses and indeed images show little, if any variation. This can be for several reasons, including (a) Insufficient, or poor direction (b) An unimaginative model/photographer pairing, achieving predictable results.

I don’t like readers wives/page 3 genres of glamour photography, but intelligently posed and lit boudoir can be fantastic. Soft and playful on the one hand, sensually engaging (as opposed to stimulating) on the other.

Then of course, there’s the power of suggestion. Some people there’s little separating fine art and pornography. I’d argue they’re two completely different genres. Soft porn, including the “reader’s wives” genres I’ve just referred to, are visceral. Fine art and implied nude, captured correctly provokes thought and intrigue.