Showing posts with label Make Up Artists. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Make Up Artists. Show all posts

Sunday, April 14, 2019

Professionalism









Yet again, a shoot has been thwarted by a model’s profound lack of professionalism. Now, before I discuss some non-defamatory specifics, lets explore the definition of professionalism.
It’s defined by the Oxford Learners Dictionary as the “high standard of skill demonstrated by someone well trained in a particular job”. I would expand by saying it’s a holistically high standard of performance, and behaviours expected of someone who makes a living from a given trade/profession.
Models have an unenviable reputation/notoriety for being unreliable and sometimes downright unprofessional. This has been my experience of novice models. Those dipping their toes into the water, rather than with serious direction/intent.
This group often discover modelling is more demanding than they imagined. A Vegas based model used an amusing acronym GWT (Girl with Tits) to describe those with little talent, or professionalism. Someone who expects to stand there and be paid, just as the GWC (Guy with Camera) has no interest in photography beyond access to young wo/men.
Sweeping hobbyist models and hobbyist photographers into this unsavoury category, would be grossly unfair, and inaccurate. There are many professionals who have/used status/power to push levels and generally mistreat models. Nonetheless, it irks me when I’ve booked and planned a shoot…
We’ve agreed the theme, I’ve planned and prepared my equipment, driven to the venue…Only to discover the model has cancelled without notice, or can’t be bothered to turn up.  Taking a deposit, to cover lost time and other costs certainly helps.
Talking of which, I’ve heard models say they’ve turned up for group shoots and one or more models has been under the influence of drink/drugs. Any professional studio/photographer will simply stop the shoot, if only for insurance purposes. Someone drunk or high is extremely unpredictable and exposes everyone to unnecessary risk.
On a wider level, any model, or photographer feeling uncomfortable should stop a shoot. I’ve done so twice, a decade back. In the first instance I realised the model was being cajoled into a level she was not comfortable with, by her “partner”.  So, last Thursday…
Communication had been reasonable and having double checked all was fine the night before, I drove thirty miles to her chosen studio. Having just engaged my car’s handbrake, I received a text from her “Manager” advising that she would not be shooting today. Hmm, well I’d come this far, and wanted to investigate this claim a little further.
Having knocked at the door, I was met with her manager and we had a very insightful, conversation. He was a semi-retired photographer who recounted similar experiences throughout his career. His stance (rather like my own) is to drop a model who failed to show; or cancelled with zero notice. I explained that I am compassionate and recognise emergencies can hit us like a hurricane. Some things can’t be helped. However, the professional thing is to communicate this, promptly. I learned she also had an underlying and relatively serious condition. Something she should’ve disclosed during our initial communications.
Not difficult to appreciate why a model wouldn’t, for fear of being dropped. However, if I know, I can take an informed view and possibly re-book, should they be suffering before the shoot.
I can also factor more frequent rest breaks, avoid poses which induce pain/discomfort etc. I’m glad I spoke directly with him. I also advised I would not consider working with her in future and would explain this via email, which I did.    
So, with these things mind and in the interests of balance, some things to consider when working with models and photographers.
Working with Models.  
As a photographer, select a model who works to the levels you are looking to capture (e.g. fashion, lingerie, editorial, topless, implied nude, art nude, fetish etc) and do not ask them to go outside of these, ever.
Check references carefully. Some novice models will not have any, which requires greater scrutiny. In these instances, I turn to pre-shoot communications. If they cannot explain what drew them to me, and my port-folio specifically, I end things there. I now insist upon a deposit too, to compensate, should they not show, as agreed.
Keep all communication online. Either via email, or personal messages if communicating through port-folio hosting sites. Be clear about the nature and structure of the shoot. What where, when, how many and turnaround times, for images.  
Check all your equipment the night before, ensure all batteries are fully charged. This includes flashguns, tripods and other portable lighting.
Ensure your record keeping is flawless and always ensure you have seen and take copies of photographic id e.g. driving licence, passport etc confirming their age and identity.
I prefer non-invasive third party/chaperones at shoots, regardless of genre. Protects model and photographer from accusations of wrong doing. Steer clear of anyone (model, or photographer) refusing to entertain the idea.
On the day of the shoot, ensure a studio, or location is correctly set up, has a suitably private changing area and you are there, on time. Ideally you will have exchanged contact numbers at least 24hours beforehand, in case of unavoidable delay.
Ensure model(s) and third parties are sober i.e. not under the influence of drink/drugs. Stop the shoot, if there is any hint of incapacity. Similarly, do not be afraid to stop the shoot (and leave) if you are made to feel uncomfortable at any point.
If you are paying the model, ensure monies are readily available i.e. if you are paying cash, have it beforehand.
Direct models professionally, politely and essentially, as you’d want to be treated yourself. NEVER touch; or invade a model’s space.
Both parties tend to warm up, during the first twenty minutes, or so. Allow for this. Stick to the discussed levels.
Factor in short, comfort breaks- for both parties and be very clear about shoot durations.
Occasionally, a model may want to go from fashion to lingerie, or lingerie to implied. I decline, especially if this is your first shoot, together. What may appeal at the time, may be regretted later. In these instances, I suggest they go away, think about it and re-book a subsequent shoot. Gives them time to “cool off” and consider whether its genuinely right for them.   
Models: Some Notes On Working With Photographers
Research potential photographers carefully. Look at their style, their genres covered. Is their style compatible with yours? Check references carefully but also see how they communicate and keep these discussions in writing.
Either via email, or port-folio hosting site messages.  If someone’s port-folio is exclusively nude and your intention is fashion, it would be prudent to look elsewhere, or ask some very searching questions. Swerve anyone who is resistant to a well-behaved chaperone/third party.
If you feel uncomfortable, or a photographer/assistant has overstepped the mark at any point, do not be afraid to stop the shoot and leave-promptly. Be guided by your gut and check exit points upon arrival.
Turn up at the location, at the agreed time and fully prepared to shoot. Sickness doesn’t work to a schedule. If you suddenly awake feeling terrible, then contact them as soon as possible.
That said; do not ring them at 3am! (unless the shoot is very early). 72-48 hours is a reasonable cancellation period for either party. Time is costly, and do not be surprised if he photographer will not work with you, in future.    
Respect the photographer, studio and their equipment.
Do not be surprised if a studio/photographer insists in a reasonable deposit upfront (but check terms) this is to safeguard against no-shows and other issues. If you have agreed the fee, pay it. I’ve had models turn up, insisting I pay them. Hopefully you can see the importance, of recorded and thorough pre-shoot communication.
All the models featured in this post were professional in every respect, and a joy to work with.

Thursday, December 6, 2018

Lipstick, Powder & Paint...Collaborating with Ellie Thurgood MUA








There’s no shortage of people, claiming to be makeup artists. Unemployed talent show hopefuls, dripping in disastrously ill matched foundation, being cases in point.
Qualified makeup artists (the sort delivering commercially credible results) are highly trained and skilled.
I was approached by Ellie Thurgood https://purpleport.com/portfolio/elliethurgoodmua/ , a part time MUA, who’d attained her NVQ level 2 funded by, and alongside another role. Ellie was talking in terms of moody portraiture. Despite a lack of references, she communicated her ideas coherently, came across as focused, reliable and professional. Gut instinct paid off.
With light and climate becoming unreliable, we agreed on an indoor location. I left model selection in Ellie’s court. She’d know the attributes required and I didn’t want the shoot scuppered by an unknown (and potentially unreliable) candidate.
I headed to the East Midlands, on another mission. Ellie quickly recruited Jerri Eliza https://purpleport.com/portfolio/jerrieliza/  Location, timing and suggestions flowed between us, via networking sites and other, digital platforms. Ellie was bringing her portable ring light, I opted to keep things simple. Flashguns, Sony Alpha SLR, Samsung NX CSC, batteries, portable LED “wand” and reflector.
Oh, and of course, sustenance for all parties. Miserable models, or (more likely) surly photographer could prove a real creativity killer during a four-hour shoot. We’d all agreed Monday evening-7pm.
I arrived on set at 6.45, Ellie 5 minutes later. Jerri was already there. Real world introductions done, we unpacked and set up. I’d gone for a 50mm 1.8 prime, set the flashgun and fired a few shots, then tweaked the settings to suit.
With a relaxed, yet purposeful mood, talk turned to our backgrounds. Something of a sociable loner (contradiction in terms, anyone) I am fascinated by people, which probably explains my transition to social photography.
Jerri happened to mention her family were of Irish origin, which explained her very pale “Celtic” complexion (although they had been in London’s East End for several generations).
She’s grown up in Newham (Custom House and later, East Ham). I’d lived in the central park area of E6. A stable and relatively, safe district 20 odd years back. However, inner city districts are always transitioning to some extent and once the creatives enter, developers aren’t far behind…
On best behaviour, I managed to subdue any urges to lament the area’s loss of derelict buildings/backdrops. She’d also worked in animal welfare, with an impressive understanding of dog breeds and their foibles.
My lighting calculations were accurate. Alternating between silver and bronze reflectors also achieved some positive contrasts. I have a resistance (rather than aversion) to golden hues but it appeared complimentary to Jerri’s tones and hair colour.        
Two striking looks (and variations) and good rapport saw time literally evaporate- We said our goodbyes, and I headed home to begin post-processing.

Georgia & The Storms

  Georgia is an experienced model from Stoke on Trent. She’s also an experienced photographer, which can be incredibly helpful when setting...