Norwich Bound to Bella

The fashion industry and by association, modeling have been widely criticised for their lack of diversity. I’ve discussed the inclusion of more diversity around height and body shapes, especially among some prominent high-street retailers. However, people from other backgrounds and ethnicities remain underrepresented.

Bella was born in Portugal but has spent most of her life, in Norwich. I’d spotted her a while back and had been keen to work with her, but opportunity eluded us, for one reason and another.  Bella knew a model I had worked with recently and was initially drawn to me, based upon her experience shooting with me. She liked my work and so we wasted no time comparing diaries.   

Bella began modelling for her friend’s GCSE photography course and it mushroomed from there.  We had discussed a few themes and settled on a mix of casual, dressy and lingerie.  

Given the contexts and themes, I prefer models to select locations where they are most familiar and comfortable. Some consideration and self-awareness are obviously key when conducting shoots in public spaces. However, for the most part, remaining respectful, while being calm, confident, and owning your space means passers-by stay at a respectful distance.   

We covered a decent amount of ground and are pleased with the results. I shot the majority of these with my faithful Sony A6000 and 33mm 1.4 lens, but I reached for my Fuji XT100 and 50mm prime for others. Cameras have attitudes in my experience and the Fuji XT100 and X100T tend to suit a less frenetic pace and reward with pin-sharp clarity, whether it's portraiture or street photography. Unfortunately, the SD card has been corrupted. Thankfully, I had only taken ten frames and hope to recover these.

 

Alternative fun with Amy

Amy contacted me, interested in my style of photography and inviting me to refresh her port-folio. She also happened to be very local, which was another incentive to shoot. Given the present pandemic and accelerating infection rates here in the UK, I am sticking to location work. Having discussed a theme of portraiture and headshots, we talked in terms of woodland backdrops but ultimately, ditched these in favour of a canal and graffiti underpass. A relaxed, though focused two hours followed, with mutually pleasing results.  
 

Socially Distanced with Silvai

Silvai is a young model who approached me in the context of a beach-based bikini shoot. Thorough pre-shoot communications have always been a must. However, the pandemic has added further checks and measures.  Having established mutual vigilance and therefore, minimal risk to each other, we worked on shoot plans and locations. 

Beaches aren’t usually problematic, so long as you select a suitable space and are sensitive to those around you. Discrete changing and shooting spaces are the most obvious considerations. The ability to shoot fast is another definite plus but as with street photography, if your body language is confident, most people will keep a respectful distance.  

Silvai was thoroughly prepared beforehand, and we quickly found three backdrops where we would not be disturbed, and the gentle throng of families wouldn’t be offended.  Though sunny, 8 degrees Centigrade precluded her emerging from the sea, a ’la Ursula Andress in Dr. No but in warmer weather, would’ve been a perfect conclusion.    

Silvai has three years modelling experience but also a unique, quirky sense of fun, which really brought our shoot to life-from the very first frame.  I was struck by how intuitively and seamless her posing was. Nothing formulaic, she clearly understood her own physicality and which angles would prove most flattering. She was equally receptive to direction over the course of our two-hour shoot. I was relieved to hear she’s delighted with the results and would readily work with her in future.     

 

 

Jane F

Jane is a professional, agency represented, mature model. She’s worked in commercial, fashion, editorial, catalogue and catwalk. Alongside this solid modelling career, she’d been a teacher for 28 years and has worked as an extra, in TV and film. She approached me in the context of portraiture and headshots.

She was very specific in her brief, and described herself as very critical. Not in a disparaging, or otherwise negative sense. Rather, she had high standards, and knew precisely what she wanted. These briefs may sound daunting but are often the easiest to fulfil.

There had been a lull in modelling commissions recently, although I have become increasingly particular regarding the models and commissions considered. I’ve had several approaches, but pre-shoot communications have ruled them out. 

Jane is based in Suffolk, so Walton On the Naze seemed a mutually convenient meeting point.  5 days beforehand, she emailed advising she’d been struck down with a heavy cold but hoped to have fully recovered by then. 

We agreed she’d confirm one way, or the other, 24hours beforehand. She did just that, I checked cameras and charged batteries. I knew of a few suitable backdrops along the town’s side streets. Public enough, from the perspective of personal safety but unlikely to attract unwelcome attention.

I was a little concerned that the school half-term holidays would present a few challenges. I’d been in Southend the weekend before and that was unusually busy. Several weeks of monsoon rains gave way to autumnal sun, bringing people out-myself included!

Wednesday’s conditions were dry and partly cloudy, which seemed ideal. However., a bracing coastal wind demanded efficiency. I plumped for primes. My 50mm 1.8 default and a 30mm 2.8 E mount Sigma.

I usually shoot between 11 am and 2, especially during autumn and winter. Ours shoot was between 2 and 4. Therefore, I hoped the light would hold out, at least until 3.30.  A 1.8 lens covers most bases and my preferred depth of field.

Pre-shoot communications are also a great way of establishing rapport, which helped in the speed stakes. Nonetheless, model and photographer need a little time to warm up. A set of weathered workshop doors proved the ideal backdrop for her first selection of clothes.

At Jane’s request, I shot a mix of headshots and ¾ length.  Having warmed up, we moved on to Walton’s pier, found some sheltered areas and after a quick change of clothing, continued shooting. This attracted a few onlookers, but everyone remained at a respectful distance.  90 minutes later, we retired to Revved Up Tea Bar  for coffee, shelter and a final review.  

Emmy

Basildon based Emmy, had expressed an interest in working with me, a few months back. She cited variety and quality, as the main attraction. Crucially, she was able to deliver a coherent paragraph, discussing ideas, shoot plans and desired locations. 

We had originally explored industrial backdrops, but she was keen to move towards more mainstream, fashion and portraiture. She had modelled during her late teens and enjoyed it. However, a very different career path and family followed. A familiar narrative and for me, a good indicator of genuine commitment.

There has been a rise of what I call “Insta models” (as distinct from pros, or serious hobbyists, with social media presence) who are essentially expecting instant fame and recognition. A complete waste of my time and other resources.

Many have asked me to work for “Exposure” i.e. free, citing the number of followers. There are exceptions to every rule. However, how frequently do you scrutinise film, or TV credits?  Nobody is looking at, or cares about the photographer, so “exposure” is a moot point.

TFP (Time for print) is where model and photographer collaborate, on a project. There may be a commercial end, say selling on the images and splitting profits accordingly. Something I will do, with selected models, at my discretion.

Otherwise, I respond, thanking them for reaching out, and with a scale of charges. The real risk, though particularly with the “Insta” model, is late, zero notice cancellations, or no-show.

In these instances, you are running at a considerable loss-all round. Time in preparation, hours that could otherwise be billed for, transport and other, on costs. At a conservative estimate, we’re talking £250 down the drain.    

I strongly suggest that an inexperienced photographer pay a model and vice versa to build their port-folios. This is an investment and rewards with vastly superior results-for both parties. Simple.

So, having cured my Sony and Samsung’s autofocusing gremlins, we worked around a local park and woodland area. Being term time, people traffic and interruptions were minimal.

High and blustery winds were another contributing factor. However, these kept rain at bay. They also added motion to Emmy’s long brown hair, and in my opinion, a more intense flavour. 

Shooting with Sam

Sam is a novice model, who wanted to cultivate a strong port-folio. While modelling has certainly become less prescriptive, male models seeking editorial and fashion assignments should stand at least 1m80 tall. 

Sam stands 1m90 and weighs a commensurate 86kilos. He is looking toward fashion and lifestyle but very keen to avoid nude, implied, or similarly provocative style. Genres which might compromise his career prospects, beyond modelling.

Based in Chelmsford, Southend was within easy reach for both of us, and offers a decent mix of backdrops.

Having met by Southend Central Station, I took him to a favourite row of murals and shot a few frames to warm up, gauge camera settings and put him at ease. Several large retail outlets had folded, their premises shuttered and seemingly derelict. However, street homelessness was less apparent than September, when I shot with Gena Rose.

I didn’t want to reuse those backdrops, so we moved to London Rd. An alleyway, behind a row of derelict shops, to be precise. I was looking for a wrought iron/similarly industrial looking staircase.

These would provide a slightly edgier feel, while accentuating his height and build. Though seemingly deserted, being the alley was a dead end we needed to shoot quickly.

I switched to my Samsung NX3000 and 30mm f2 lens.

Discarded cans of lager, baby baths and a decomposing sludge also prompted more careful risk assessment.  Despite the heightened sense of alert, we progressed, uninterrupted and at a calm, purposeful pace for fifteen minutes.  

Next destination was a coin operated (and seemingly) self-service, Launderette.

Aside from two women (who later revealed they were hoping Sam was going to re-enact the iconic 1985 Levi’s 501 commercial) we were left in peace, to tweak settings, retouch hair, and thaw out a little.

Our audience was gracious but neither of us fancied a long, potentially difficult explanation, with an attendant, or owner. So, we smiled, nodded and moved to more salubrious, residential side streets. I’d parked along one, and clocked some garage doors, with peeling paint. Perfect.

Being private property, I knocked at the house. No-one was home, or at least, willing to engage. Therefore, being in full view of passers-by I directed Sam for several frames, and a total of ten minutes. By this point, (a good 90 minutes in) I decided we’d earned lunch, and a break.   

Re-fuelled, we headed to the Kursaal, and to our final set, since more wintry weather and low cloud were beginning to encroach. The old Grosvenor rock factory, and shuttered arcades proved perfect backdrops.

Heading back towards the station, we were approached by a young man, begging for money. I will buy food/coffee/similar but don’t give cash, since it is often used to fuel an addiction.

Something that became very apparent, when the man’s trouser leg lifted, revealing a badly ulcerated calf and foot, complete with track marks…All too prevalent in the once proud, and bustling seaside towns.