Professionalism

Yet again, a shoot has been thwarted by a model’s profound lack of professionalism. Now, before I discuss some non-defamatory specifics, lets explore the definition of professionalism.

It’s defined by the Oxford Learners Dictionary as the “high standard of skill demonstrated by someone well trained in a particular job”. I would expand by saying it’s a holistically high standard of performance, and behaviours expected of someone who makes a living from a given trade/profession.

Models have an unenviable reputation/notoriety for being unreliable and sometimes downright unprofessional. This has been my experience of novice models. Those dipping their toes into the water, rather than with serious direction/intent.

This group often discover modelling is more demanding than they imagined. A Vegas based model used an amusing acronym GWT (Girl with Tits) to describe those with little talent, or professionalism. Someone who expects to stand there and be paid, just as the GWC (Guy with Camera) has no interest in photography beyond access to young wo/men.

Sweeping hobbyist models and hobbyist photographers into this unsavoury category, would be grossly unfair, and inaccurate. There are many professionals who have/used status/power to push levels and generally mistreat models. Nonetheless, it irks me when I’ve booked and planned a shoot…

We’ve agreed the theme, I’ve planned and prepared my equipment, driven to the venue…Only to discover the model has cancelled without notice, or can’t be bothered to turn up.  Taking a deposit, to cover lost time and other costs certainly helps.

Talking of which, I’ve heard models say they’ve turned up for group shoots and one or more models has been under the influence of drink/drugs. Any professional studio/photographer will simply stop the shoot, if only for insurance purposes. Someone drunk or high is extremely unpredictable and exposes everyone to unnecessary risk.

On a wider level, any model, or photographer feeling uncomfortable should stop a shoot. I’ve done so twice, a decade back. In the first instance I realised the model was being cajoled into a level she was not comfortable with, by her “partner”.  So, last Thursday…

Communication had been reasonable and having double checked all was fine the night before, I drove thirty miles to her chosen studio. Having just engaged my car’s handbrake, I received a text from her “Manager” advising that she would not be shooting today. Hmm, well I’d come this far, and wanted to investigate this claim a little further.

Having knocked at the door, I was met with her manager and we had a very insightful, conversation. He was a semi-retired photographer who recounted similar experiences throughout his career. His stance (rather like my own) is to drop a model who failed to show; or cancelled with zero notice. I explained that I am compassionate and recognise emergencies can hit us like a hurricane. Some things can’t be helped. However, the professional thing is to communicate this, promptly. I learned she also had an underlying and relatively serious condition. Something she should’ve disclosed during our initial communications.

Not difficult to appreciate why a model wouldn’t, for fear of being dropped. However, if I know, I can take an informed view and possibly re-book, should they be suffering before the shoot.

I can also factor more frequent rest breaks, avoid poses which induce pain/discomfort etc. I’m glad I spoke directly with him. I also advised I would not consider working with her in future and would explain this via email, which I did.    

So, with these things mind and in the interests of balance, some things to consider when working with models and photographers.

Working with Models.  

As a photographer, select a model who works to the levels you are looking to capture (e.g. fashion, lingerie, editorial, topless, implied nude, art nude, fetish etc) and do not ask them to go outside of these, ever.

Check references carefully. Some novice models will not have any, which requires greater scrutiny. In these instances, I turn to pre-shoot communications. If they cannot explain what drew them to me, and my port-folio specifically, I end things there. I now insist upon a deposit too, to compensate, should they not show, as agreed.

Keep all communication online. Either via email, or personal messages if communicating through port-folio hosting sites. Be clear about the nature and structure of the shoot. What where, when, how many and turnaround times, for images.  

Check all your equipment the night before, ensure all batteries are fully charged. This includes flashguns, tripods and other portable lighting.

Ensure your record keeping is flawless and always ensure you have seen and take copies of photographic id e.g. driving licence, passport etc confirming their age and identity.

I prefer non-invasive third party/chaperones at shoots, regardless of genre. Protects model and photographer from accusations of wrong doing. Steer clear of anyone (model, or photographer) refusing to entertain the idea.

On the day of the shoot, ensure a studio, or location is correctly set up, has a suitably private changing area and you are there, on time. Ideally you will have exchanged contact numbers at least 24hours beforehand, in case of unavoidable delay.

Ensure model(s) and third parties are sober i.e. not under the influence of drink/drugs. Stop the shoot, if there is any hint of incapacity. Similarly, do not be afraid to stop the shoot (and leave) if you are made to feel uncomfortable at any point.

If you are paying the model, ensure monies are readily available i.e. if you are paying cash, have it beforehand.

Direct models professionally, politely and essentially, as you’d want to be treated yourself. NEVER touch; or invade a model’s space.

Both parties tend to warm up, during the first twenty minutes, or so. Allow for this. Stick to the discussed levels.

Factor in short, comfort breaks- for both parties and be very clear about shoot durations.

Occasionally, a model may want to go from fashion to lingerie, or lingerie to implied. I decline, especially if this is your first shoot, together. What may appeal at the time, may be regretted later. In these instances, I suggest they go away, think about it and re-book a subsequent shoot. Gives them time to “cool off” and consider whether its genuinely right for them.   

Models: Some Notes On Working With Photographers

Research potential photographers carefully. Look at their style, their genres covered. Is their style compatible with yours? Check references carefully but also see how they communicate and keep these discussions in writing.

Either via email, or port-folio hosting site messages.  If someone’s port-folio is exclusively nude and your intention is fashion, it would be prudent to look elsewhere, or ask some very searching questions. Swerve anyone who is resistant to a well-behaved chaperone/third party.

If you feel uncomfortable, or a photographer/assistant has overstepped the mark at any point, do not be afraid to stop the shoot and leave-promptly. Be guided by your gut and check exit points upon arrival.

Turn up at the location, at the agreed time and fully prepared to shoot. Sickness doesn’t work to a schedule. If you suddenly awake feeling terrible, then contact them as soon as possible.

That said; do not ring them at 3am! (unless the shoot is very early). 72-48 hours is a reasonable cancellation period for either party. Time is costly, and do not be surprised if he photographer will not work with you, in future.    

Respect the photographer, studio and their equipment.

Do not be surprised if a studio/photographer insists in a reasonable deposit upfront (but check terms) this is to safeguard against no-shows and other issues. If you have agreed the fee, pay it. I’ve had models turn up, insisting I pay them. Hopefully you can see the importance, of recorded and thorough pre-shoot communication.

All the models featured in this post were professional in every respect, and a joy to work with.

Model Meltdowns

I’ve had two no-shows this week, and a couple of no-notice postponements this month. Frustrating on the one hand, these have also prompted a more robust approach to bookings and fees.

However, I’ve discussed this in previous entries. This week, I’m going to talk about another recurrent theme. Anxiety, especially amongst younger models. I’ve had two no-shows, which were apparently attributable to chronic anxiety.

I must also stress, these are in no way attributable to my conduct/behaviour. Good reputations take considerable time and effort to cultivate, and I’m proud of mine.

The most recent incident involved a relatively new model, who had worked with me on three separate occasions, last year. She seemed very grounded and emotionally mature, beyond her years. 

Most models I’ve worked with, become repeat customers.

There are models (and indeed studios/photographers) I have shot with, once and not since. Sometimes its just down to different schedules. However, there are several who I would not work with again. Full stop.

There are others, who would need to pay me, in full, up front. 

I am compassionate. Sickness doesn’t work to a schedule. The most reliable, and well-maintained cars, or childcare, can let us down. I know these things only too well, having experienced them first hand.

I work with models, who are also parents and recognise, that from time to time, shoots get cancelled at very short notice. We know how the other party works, so not overly problematic, in the general scheme of things.   

I have noticed a pronounced spike in anxiety related cancellations and no-shows among models in their early twenties. Anecdotally, there is quite a bit of evidence suggesting people per se, are becoming more anxious. Social media and pressures stemming from it, often cited as the root causes.

My first experience of a model suffering from undisclosed chronic anxiety, came in November. She approached me, we arranged a location shoot. Upon arrival that morning, I received a text, advising she’d had a serious panic attack. Could we postpone for a couple of hours?

Given I’d been caught in a torrential downpour, and was already 40 miles from home, it seemed a sensible move. I took this opportunity to drop in on some friends, close by. Realising it was almost time to meet, I rang the model’s number. To my surprise, her father answered and seemed slightly concerned.

Long story short, his daughter did not show. However, as time wore on, I kept in contact with her father, both of us extremely concerned for her welfare. On a slightly selfish note, I was also uneasy, given I was the last person she was due to be meeting. What if her disappearance took a sinister turn?

I finally headed home, after six hours, advising her father of my movements. Ultimately, she was found in an extremely fragile state, at her mother’s house. Her father was profusely apologetic about the situation. 

I was extremely relieved she had been found, safe. However, I suggested she should seek professional help, before resuming modelling.  I notice she has, but I would not consider shooting with her, unless I was paid up front, and in full.

The other model (who worked with me last year) contacted me by text, in the first week of January. Apparently she’d lost her modelling mojo and wanted to start again, with me.

We floated a few ideas around, settling on a pool/swimwear shoot. Date agreed, I received a text at 230am, last Thursday morning, saying she had only just returned home, due to a chronically delayed train. Therefore, could we defer until the following (this) week. 

I agreed but left things firmly in her court.  I received a text confirming she’d rearranged for this coming Wednesday, same location, same time.

I acknowledged and said I’d meet her there. No replies to my texts, the evening before should’ve been a red flag. However, she’d been reliable in the past. We were due to meet and shoot at 8am, for an hour.

Icy roads, coupled with the belief that I’d rather be 30minutes early, than two minutes late, meant I headed out at 645. Arrived, and parked with those thirty minutes to spare…

Fifteen minutes passed, so I sent a pleasant text, just to announce I was parked up and ready. Ten minutes later, five minutes before we were due to shoot, I called. Her phone went straight to answerphone. I left a message, before sending a final text, saying I would wait another ten minutes. Nothing. I left a final text, heading back and wishing her well.

I am compassionate yes, but not a charity. Unless I am compensated financially, for my lost time and there is a good explanation for her non-attendance, I won’t entertain future shoots, with her. The same applies to other models, regardless where they are, in their modelling career.